Lemon Squeezer/Boston Mine Loop

Last week, Law & Order and I hiked a 7.5 mile trail that included Green Pond and Island Pond Mountains, the famous Appalachian Trail rock formation, known as the Lemon Squeezer and the historic Boston Mine. It was a great day for hiking!

Our adventure begins at the parking area next to a meadow known as the Elk Pen (named so in 1919, when about 60 Elk were brought from Yellowstone Park in hopes of populating this area.). Walk the unmarked trail through the meadow and turn right at the end. In about 100 feet you will come to a wooden mileage sign for the Appalachian Trail. Turn left and follow the A.T. up the Green Pond Mountain. The climb is a moderate, then strenuous 500 foot ascent. After the summit, the A.T. descends the mountain at an easy pace.

At the eastern base of Green Pond Mountain, the A.T. turns left onto Island Pond Road, a dirt road built by Edward Harriman about 1905. Shortly after, the A.T. turns right and crosses a gravel road built in the 1960s as an access to Island Pond. You then cross an outlet of the pond over a small wooden bridge.

Continue to follow the A.T. through a knoll overlooking the pond. You will pass a large metal object on the right (this was once used to sort gravel). Shortly after passing the metal sorter, the A.T. turns left and climbs to a junction with the A-SB Trail (red triangles on a white background). Turn left at the junction and follow the dual trails to the base of a large rock formation where the two trails split.

Continue on the white blaze trail through the rock formation, known as the Lemon Squeezer. This narrow passage is one of the most famous landmarks of the Appalachian Trail. After squeezing through (I'm not kidding) the rocks, you will walk right into a steep rock face (again, not kidding). This is definitely a challenging obstacle to navigate yourself over. Those who cannot maneuver this, can bypass it by taking a short side trail to the left.

After the Lemon Squeezer, the trail levels off to a nice hike to the summit of Island Pond Mountain. The stone ruins right after the summit are remains of Edward Harriman's cabin. Take a break and enjoy the view.

The A.T. descends the mountain and passes through a hemlock grove before reaching a junction with the Long Path. The junction is marked by a wooden signpost (seen at the top left of this post). Say goodbye to the A.T. (by the way, you have just hiked the first few miles ever blazed on the Appalachian Trail...pretty cool...). Now follow the aqua-blazed Long Path. The Long Path follows the Dismal Swamp edge (nope, not kidding, and yes, it's pretty dismal). After what seems to be a long, dismal walk, you will come to a woods road marked by three horizontal white blazes. Yell "hallelujah!" and turn right onto the White Bar Trail.

After about a mile, the yellow-blazed Dunning Trail joins the White Bar Trail from the left. Continue ahead, following both trails, but when they separate about a quarter of a mile later, turn right and follow the yellow-blazed Dunning Trail.

Once on the Dunning Trail, there are a lot of ups and downs over rocks. When you descend from what seems to be the largest (also the last) the path bears right. Turn again right and enter the Boston Mine. SO COOL! Although the mine is filled with water, it is definitely reward enough for the climbing we just did! This mine was last worked around 1880.

We sadly leave the Boston Mine and continue back on the yellow-blazed Dunning Trail, but only for about 500 feet. We reach a wide woods road and turn right onto it. Follow the unmarked Island Pond Road through hemlock and laurels. When you come to the A-SB (red triangle on white blaze) continue ahead and bear right at the fork. At the next intersection, again bear right. After a short walk you will arrive at the remains of a stone building. This was once a ranger station. Hang out, eat a snickers bar, and explore the area. There are great views of the pond from this area.

When you're ready, retrace your steps on the unmarked road, this time bear right at the intersection with the A-SB Trail. Now follow the red triangle on white trail across the southern end of the Green Pond Mountain. After an easy hike through the wooded area marked by many felled trees, we begin our descent. By far the least enjoyable part of our adventure. The path down includes many switchbacks over rocks. The descent feels more like a rock quarry than a mountain. Use extreme caution and the use of hiking poles is recommended.

When you are safely off of the mountain, continue to follow the A-SB trail until you reach a grassy woods road (Old Arden Road), turn right and follow this road to the end of the A-SB marked by a triple blaze. Turn left and follow the path through the meadow back to the Elk Pen parking area where we started.

To get here take N.Y. route 17 north through Sloatsburg, Tuxedo, and Southfields. About two miles north of Southfields, turn right onto Arden Valley Road. Cross the bridge, then make the first right at the sign for hikers' trailhead parking. Park in the dirt lot next to the meadow known as the Elk Pen.

Old Goat's Appalachian Trail Adventure

Here's a video from Old Goat of his Appalachian Trail adventure, I found it on YouTube. Anyone interested in reading more from Old Goat himself can find it here: http://www.trailjournals.com/chipsadventure

Bear Mountain

In 1908, New York announced plans to relocate Sing Sing Prison to Bear Mountain. The state actually began work on the building after purchasing 740 acres of land in 1909. Enter Mary Averell Harriman (widow of Union Pacific president, E.H. Harriman). Mary proposed to the then Governor of New York, Charles Evans Hughes, that she would donate 10,000 acres of land and $1 million for the creation of a new state park, but only if the plans for the prison were abandoned. George W. Perkins, head of the newly formed Palisades Interstate Park Commission, raised another $1.5 million, thanks to dozens of wealthy contributors including John D. Rockefeller and J. Pierpont Morgan. The state accepted, and on October 29, 1910, New York was presented with the deed to the land and a check.

In 1912, Major William A. Welch was hired as the Chief Engineer. By 1913, Major Welch (later to be recognized as the father of the state park and the national park movement) began the construction of the road that would link Bear Mountain to Sloatsburg, known today as Seven Lakes Drive. Major Welch also served as the Chief Engineer/General Manager of the newly formed park from 1910 to 1940.

The park opened on July 5, 1913 bringing 22,000 visitors by steamboats alone that year. By 1914, an estimated 1 million people a year were visiting the park. Winter sports were added in 1928, in fact, by 1960, more ski jump competitions were held at Bear Mountain than any other area in the United States. Unfortunately, the ski jumps have been closed since the 1970's.

The first section of the Appalachian Trail, from Bear Mountain to the Delaware Water Gap, opened on October 7, 1923. The portion of the trail that passes through the Bear Mountain Zoo is the lowest point in the 2,170 mile hiking trail. Major Welch also served as the first chairman of the Appalachian Trail Conference. He is credited with designing the "A over T" marker that became the symbol of the Appalachian Trail.

On to our hike!

Beginning at the Bear Mountain Inn (will it ever reopen?), head west to reach the red-dot-on-white-blazed Major Welch Trail. The trail follows the shore of the Hessian Lake, offering a nice view of the lake. At the north end of the trail, bear left to ascend the northern slope of the mountain. The path inclines sharply and the rocky path becomes increasingly difficult as you climb. The footpath climbs a vertical distance of about 500 feet in roughly a quarter of a mile.

After climbing for what seems to be an eternity, the trail levels off to it's first panoramic view. Brooks Lake can be seen directly ahead with Bear Mountain Bridge and Anthony's Nose behind it to your right. Take a break, drink some water, eat some turkey jerky and take a lot of pictures.

Although you might feel like you are at the top of the world, you are not and it's time to continue onward! Leaving the false summit, continue to climb the steep ascent until you arrive at the stone wall and Perkins Drive.

Nope, not there yet! Turn left and follow the road, then turn right continuing on the trail through the mountain laurel. Once at the true top, the trail levels off to a gravel road leading through more laurels where it joins a paved road. From here, it is only a short walk to Perkins Memorial Tower (named after the first president of the Palisades Interstate Park Commission). Bring quarters to refill on fluids from the vending machines!

Continue past the tower to a scenic view. From here head back to the tower, but bear right at a large boulder. You will see a plaque honoring Joseph Bartha as Trails Chairman of the New York-New Jersey Trail Conference. To the left we pick up the Appalachian Trail, marked by a white vertical rectangle.

Bear right and descend the mountain passing an old water pipline resting on a rock embankment. After only a short distance, the trail crosses Scenic Drive. Continuing to descend, we cross Scenic Drive again.

About a half mile from the mountain summit, the trail will cross Scenic Drive for the third time. Here, it turns right and follows the road. At the dead end turnaround, bear to the right and follow the trail to the left as it leaves the road (the pavement is marked with "I-HR"). Pass through a pine grove, then the trail begins to descend more steeply (note: due to extensive use, this section of the trail is heavly eroded and poorly marked. The AT is under a massive relocation of this section, but not expected to be completed until about 2011).

Follow the Appalachian Trail for about another mile until it joins the yellow-blazed Suffern-Bear Mountain Trail. Both trails cross a stream and turn sharply right. Continue to follow the road, crossing behind the skating rink (to the right) and an abandoned ski jump (to the left), descending to reach the junction behind the Bear Mountain Inn where our adventure began.

Whew! Climbing 1,305 feet and back sure does wear a person out! But almost 10 miles and 3 hours and we're feeling great!

For directions to the park and more information: http://www.nysparks.state.ny.us/

or call (845) 786-2701